January Organization

 

It seems that it happens every January. It's a new year. Everyone's into making resolutions, choosing their word(s) for the year, cleaning out the old and making room for the new. Blogs and YouTube are full of organizational videos.

Last year, I vowed to complete a stack of quilts.  All UFOs.  Some needed to be quilted and some just needed binding attached.  I can say that I did wrap some of those up succesfully.  Finding time to sew for yourself can be difficult when you run a business of sewing / quilting for others.  Some projects still remain, but I count it as a resolution met...if only partially.

I started a Bonnie Hunter Mystery Quiltalong at the end of last year.  #RhododendronTrail   I do this every year, it seems, and then after a couple clues, I give up.  I keep the pattern clues thinking that I may get “around to it” but always find an excuse to fall out completely.  I don’t have the right colors.  There are too many pieces.  It’s tax time and I really want to get the books done.  Or there’s a new class I am trying to develop.  The latter two excuses always win out.

This year, I am making a valiant effort to clean out and clean up my sewing studio.  It seems there are scraps of fabric and projects left unfinished every where.  Bonnie's quilt is helping empty some bins.  At the same time, my sorting and getting things put away is refilling my scraps.  I may have to revisit her older challenges!

I've been following a challenge by Just Get It Done Quilts. Karen Brown has some good tips and reminders that I “just need to get it done!”  View her Declutter Challenge here:

https://youtu.be/7U8537FQMpI

Day seven was all about threads. Boy, could I relate! Karen talks about threads that have been around in our cupboards forever. Threads that we've inherited and threads that we have no idea where they came from.

 

I have this tub of threads that I've been meaning to go through and toss out all the strays. And this seems to be the opportunity to do just that. I figured if I turn this into a blog post it might inspire me / shame me by making it public to finally go through and sort out the things that just don't belong and I'm never going to use.

I'll bet you have a tub or a drawer just like this one!

First, that zipper doesn't belong.  I have another tub for those.  And 70 cents?  How long have I had that??!

THE HIT LIST

Most of these I am sure came from my Grandmother's collection or I have had since I first began sewing.  Either way...it's too long!

• I spy a Ben Franklin price sticker...gone!  Yes, the store AND the thread!
• Empty spools.  wooden spools...well maybe for a decorative jar of antiquities!
• Girl Scout patches that never got sewn on my daughters GS vest.  How did those get there?  Good intentions, I guess.
• Unmarked foam spools that probably came with a long ago used up or discarded sewing kit.

Yes, unfortunately, many of these soldiers ended up in the bin.  The box will be re-purposed and re-labeled.

Did I inspire you to do the same?

Part 2-Purchasing an Embroidery Machine

So we discussed some things to think about when you set out to buy a new sewing machine.  Now let's talk about another option.  Maybe you've seen some fun things done with an embroidery machine.  Monogram on towels are great, but there is so much more.  But hold on to your hat!  Like starting up any new craft, it can get expensive quickly.

It may have crossed your mind that this may become a business.  Again, do your homework before jumping in with both feet.  An embroidery business can be rewarding, but it does require investment of time and money.  Let's talk about embroidery as just a hobby.

First, deciding on a machine.  Again-lot's of choices.  And if you have NO experience, you'll want good support AFTER the sale.  Is the support within an easy travel distance?  You will probably have to take your machine and all your supplies to a class. You can take embroidery classes, but machines can vary with functions.  You'll want to learn on your machine.

Capabilities of the Machine.

Hoop Size
The more affordable machine may only have a maximum hoop size of 4x4 (inches).  That will be fine for the majority of designs out there.  But then comes that one design you find (that you have to have) that won't fit inside that hoop.

Someone says, "Oh, that's easy!  Split the design!"  Well, yes and no.  You will need to buy software to split the design and then have the skill to re-hoop your project and re-align the design.  There are some re-positionable hoops that assist with split designs without re-hooping, but that's another purchase.  (Beginning to understand why we need to think this through?)

Machine Communications
There will be some designs (and maybe letters or fonts)  included with your machine.  They are installed.  But you will need to get other designs (whether purchased or downloaded) to your machine.  Some machines require a direct hook-up to your computer, or designs can be transferred via a thumb drive.  Older machines may have a "card" option. This option requires a "card writer."  Yes, another option and purchase.

Software
Depending on the machine you select, some design editing can be done by the machine.  Changing machine formats (not all machine brands speak the same language), enlarging a design, monogram designs, changing thread colors, combining or splitting designs, and digitizing (creating) your own designs are just a few things that software can do.

Here, again, there are lots of choices.  And many have free trials.  I encourage you to try them.  You most likely will not be able to save any work.  You will just be able to play and explore the capabilities.  And you should have some computer knowledge.  Some programs will work with Macs as well as PCs.  Some will not.

And, I assume, since you are reading this, you have a computer.  You need a computer.

Threads, Needles, and Stabilizers

Yes, there's more to buy to get started.  They are all necessary to get a good sew out.  It's another big subject - too many variations to get into here.  Just put it on your shopping list.

My intent is not to discourage or dissuade you from wading into the "embroidery" pool.  Just don't get in over your head.  Embroidery can be so much fun and very rewarding. I want to see you enjoying the processes and not frustrated by them.

If you missed our previous discussion about starting the sewing machine purchase process, click HERE to begin.

Want to know more?  Just ask...

Happy Sewing!
KK

Block 3 - A Little Birdie Told Me - Be My Neighbor

Applique can add beauty, or a bit of whimsey to a quilting project that piecing or creative quilting design cannot match.

Of all the the techniques that I have taught over the years, applique seems to stir fear in the hearts of my quilting students.  Never have really understood why.  Maybe it's the four-letter word - "hand." Applique is best known to be done by hand, but can also be achieved by machine.

Block 3 in our Neighborhood Sew Along has a sweet little bird sitting atop the roof singing a tune, I'm sure.  To encourage you to give applique a try, I have a couple tips and will show a couple ways to achieve success.

Option 1 - Finished Edge Fusible Applique

You will need Lightweight Fusible Interfacing and a pen or fine tipped marker. Trace the needed shapes on to fusible.

Next roughly cut apart pieces, placing them with coordinating fabric.  Leave at least a 1/4" margin around all pieces

With right sides together (right side of fabric and bumpy-fusible side of interfacing) sew interfacing to fabric following drawn lines.  Cut out shapes leaving a narrow 1/8" margin.

Cut  small slit in the center of interfacing being careful not to cut fabric as well.  Sharp, pointed scissors are best.  

Using that wonderful chopstick (we talked about in previous post) carefully turn the pieces right side out.  Use the chopstick to aid in turning and pushing out tight corners.

Since you cannot apply a hot iron at this point,  use the flat edge of chopstick and the heat from your fingers to press edges flat.

Here are two pieces of the bird.  You would next place the pieces on the block and fuse them in place according to interfacing instructions.  Then tack in place by hand or machine.

Because the edges are finished or turned, it gives more of the appearance of being "hand" finished.  It also gives "lift" or a 3-dimensional look to your work.

But we have some really tiny pieces with this project, so not all can be accomplished with this method.  The tiny beak is just too small to turn.

So let's look at my favorite method.....



Option 2 - Raw Edge Applique

This method requires a double sided fusible - like Heat N Bond or Steam A Seam Lite (I carry both).  Again trace pattern pieces on the paper side of fusible.

These fusibles have a paper and a fusible side.  When you fuse it to the backside of fabric, allow to cool, you can remove the paper backing to reveal a second fusible side.  This fusible side is slightly tacky (like a Post-It Note) and helps with placement.










 Roughly cut pieces apart, leaving margins and place on the back side of appropriate fabric.

Take pieces and fusible to ironing board and fuse to backside of fabrics.  Allow to cool and then cut shapes on drawn lines.  Remove (peel) paper backing off.  If you are having trouble removing, bend a corner back or pop up with the point of a pin.


Next apply pieces to your block. When happy with placement, iron in place.  Pieces CANNOT be moved or removed easily so be sure you have it where you want.  Use that chopstick again to move or place small pieces.

Pieces can be secured with machine stitching.  Work on a sample scrap trying different stitches on your sewing machine and don't forget to adjust both stitch length and width. You may choose a tight narrow zig-zag, a blanket or blind stitch, or a simple narrow topstitch.  Choose whatever you find pleasing.  I choose a blindstitch.

 Here's a little BlueBird for my block.  I didn't add a eye yet.  Maybe a button or bead when the quilt is finished.

Happy Sewing!
KK

Tool Tip Tuesday

Not all sewing room tools are found on the LQS notions walls.

Today we'll look at sewing with small pieces or pointed piecing.


It's pretty basic.  Always have something under your needle.  Chain piece your projects - one piece following in after the other.  My Grandmother Stella new this long before I began sewing.  She had this small scrap of fabric that she ran through the machine at the beginning and stopped sewing on until it began to look like a very hairy spider!

Points tend to want to get pushed by the needle through the needleplate and all sorts of unhappiness begins as it gets tangled, jams the machine, and interrupts our sewing session possibly damaging the fabric.

If your machine head is portable, leave the spider in place.  Protect your sewing feet from damage or scratching by the feed dogs.  There should always be fabric between them.

Then there the matter of running the sewing machine with your fingers very close to that needle.  Another simple fix - go out to eat Chinese!

Grab an extra set of chop sticks.  Even if you can't manage to eat with them they are very handy to hold or guide small pieces of fabric through the sewing machine.

They are VERY inexpensive if not FREE and can be used for a multitude of small tasks.  Try turning that next applique project with a chopstick.  Great for pushing out and making nice corners.

Your long tweezers from your serger are also very handy.

Sew, that's it for today....Happy Sewing!

Breaking Ground on Be My Neighbor Sew Along

Starting a new project is always fun for a quilter.  This one checks two things off my bucket list - using up scraps and a "house" quilt.

So let's get organized and set up for a sixteen block quilt.

The quilt patterns come in grey scale, so there is no correct color and I do not expect that any two will look alike.  I'll be posting pics of my progress and I encourage you to share your progress, too.

Share with the #ModaBeMyNeighbor tag on Facebook, Twitter, Google+ and Instagram.

Ok - I sound like a broken record, but let's start with your machine!
When was the last time you popped the needleplate and cleaned the bobbin area?  (Check the Blog Archive for a recent post for machine cleaning.)

And new project - let's change that needle.  I like a size 75/11 or 80/12 Sharp.

Thread.  I prefer a 50 wt for piecing.  Lets go ahead and pre-wind several bobbins.  Choose a thread color complimentary of your fabrics.  I usually select a cream or grey/greenish leaning thread.  It tends to blend into any fabric.

Cutting mats, rotary cutters (change that blade - leaning harder means it's time for a new blade), scissors, and cutting rulers.  Don't forget the seam ripper!

And then there is that fabric....

I chose to use my extensive collection of scraps!

There are lots of blog and opinions out there about what to keep, how to keep it, and how to use it!  Well, I keep anything an inch and over, keep it in a basket, or sorted by color in drawers.  And I am about to use it!  No pre-cutting and more sorting.

So I am picking as I go - colors, prints,  just making it fun!

And you can see..it may need a press...so set up the iron and ironing board.  I have a small pressing board which reverses to a cutting mat and cordless iron right next to my machine.  Reduces steps and keeps me working.

 So put the Crock Pot on...and let's sew!   Look for Block 1 tomorrow!

Here's the Schedule
Blocks 1-16 can now be found on the Sew Along Page of my website

Getting At Those Dustbunnies

April showers bring May flowers!  Showers clean away the grubby remains of winter.  And that's what we're doing today.  Cleaning out the fuzzy remains of those last 29 quilting/sewing projects!

These instructions are written for a  sewing machine with a top-loading bobbin.  Many of today's modern machines are top-loading.  But there are a few front or side-loading bobbins that we will discuss in another post.

So get your tools ready! Gather everything and let's get started! 

A good brush is essential.  There are brushes specifically sold for sewing machine cleaning.  Don't forget to check the automotive section of your local hardware store.  That's where I found the brush with the puffy red end.  It's for cleaning your dashboard and air vents.  A small paint brush is also handy for sewing machines.  Don't forget pipe cleaners and Q-tips for tight places.  Tweezers, not pictured, are good for grabbing on to loose threads or reaching in to tight spaces.

You should have a bottle of sewing machine oil handy.  DO NOT use any other type of lubricant or oil than what is SPECIFICALLY labeled as sewing machine oil. If your oil appears cloudy or yellowed, it's time for a fresh bottle.  Don't worry, it's inexpensive.  Repairmen are not!

A small lid from a plastic container for screws and small parts. And last, but not least, a small screwdriver.  Stubby, short ones work great for removing needleplate.

First let's remove the needle.  Dispose of safely.

Remove the screws from your needleplate.  Store them in a small lid where they won't roll away and become lost.  Remove bobbin cover and bobbin.

Remove the needleplate and store safely aside.

If you are unsure or haven't done this before, you may want a digital camera, phone with a camera, or a tablet to take pictures of your machine parts and placement for reference.  It may come in handy when you go to put things back together.

Having exposed the bobbin area where most of the bunnies breed, you'll want to remove the bobbin case next.  Here you will find the rotary hook - the silver round thingy!

If you haven't cleaned in a while - or EVER - you might find a compacted accumulation of lint and threads.  Depending on what materials you are sewing, this can build up fast.  Flannels, cotton quilt batting, and inexpensive threads are the biggest culprits.

Clean this area with a Q-tip with a drop of sewing machine oil.  It works like a magnet attracting dust.  Place a drop of oil at the bottom of the rotary hook.

Continue to clean the area around the hook with Q-tip, brushes, and/or tweezers.  If you have a automatic thread cutter, ensure it is free of stray threads.

Check the feed dogs for accumulated and compacted lint between the rows of teeth.  Remove with blade of small screwdriver or tweezers.

Once you have ensured that everything is clean and clear, it's time to put everything back together.

Before you replace the bobbin case, ensure it is clean and free of lint and threads.  If your case has a little tab of felt, DO NOT REMOVE!  It belongs there.

The bobbin case should lie flat in the rotary hook.  Not cockeyed!  To ensure you have placed it correctly, rotate the hand wheel towards you one full rotation slowly.  The rotary hook should rotate smoothly and completely without hanging up on bobbin case.  If the case gets hung up, STOP.  Remove and replace bobbin case correctly.

Now replace the needleplate and screws.  Tighten securely, but do not over tighten.

Insert a fresh needle for your next project.

Repeat this process often for best machine performance and longevity.  Try at least every 2-3 bobbin changes.  And if you sew often, send your machine to your dealer or qualified repairman for annual spa day maintenance.  Don't wait until something goes horribly wrong in the middle of a project - because, it will, you know!

These items are available in our store.  Click here to shop.

Practically Perfect In Every Way

Is the quarter inch seam really important?

Mary Poppins was self-proclaimed as "practically perfect in every way."  Well, let's face it, we aren't quite that perfect.  With practice (and a few tricks up our sleeves), we can make a valiant attempt!  I think when someone pointed out to me that a slight miscalculation can be multiplied over a number of seams, it brought home the importance.  A seam that is off by one eighth of an inch over just one block with eight seams can be off one whole inch. 

One of the first things you'll need to master as a new quilter is the Perfect Personal Quarter Inch Seam.  Mastering that seam will be the very foundation of your quilting successes. In the Beginning Quilting classes it's the first thing.  And it must be found on your sewing machine, not mine.  Finding a good quarter inch can be different on every machine. 

Well, then how can I find my PPQI?  There are different techniques and you may even have your own.  Here are a few suggestions:

Lets go to your machine.  If you are able to move the needle - left or center - move the needle to the center.  Machines that have guide marks on the needle plate are usually measured from the center position.
Grab a ruler.  Lower the needle by turning the hand wheel towards you -always towards you, never backwards.  Place the ruler up next to the right of the needle.  Note where the quarter inch lies.  Is it the edge of the sewing foot?  Does your machine have the quarter inch marked on the needle plate?  Now you know where the edge of your fabric should lie.

Grab a stack of sticky notes.  Place a small stack of notes to the right of your quarter inch mark on the machine bed.  Use them as a "bumper" to guide fabric as you sew.

Grab some painter's tape - the blue stuff.  DO NOT use masking tape.  You cannot reposition it.  Masking tape leaves a sticky residue or just can't be moved.  This can be used as a guide, too.

Those are the two easiest.  Use one of these methods to guide your fabric as you sew.  Placement of the fabric before it goes through the machine is very important.  After it reaches the needle and is sewn. it is too late for changes. 

Maybe you have a quarter inch foot.  Quilters think that because they have the QI foot,  all should be fine.  Let's see.

Let's sew a seam and measure.

Is it a PPQI?  Do we need to adjust?  Do not force fabric up against the blade, or allow the fabric to stray too far from the edge.  Both can give unfavorable results. 

Other aids are helpful with guiding fabric and helping to assure that you are achieving the best  results.  This guide is awesome and you'll see more of it in later posts.  It has multiple uses and is from New Leaf Stitches and Kari Carr.

The PPQI should be actually a thread's width shy of a quarter inch.  Why? And this is where the thread you are sewing with matters.  When the fabric is opened, seams are pressed to one side or opened,  the fold of the fabric,  ever so slightly, adds to the seam allowance.  The heavier the thread, the fatter the fold (and the seam).  Threads are identified by weights - the higher the number, the thinner the thread.  Quilting thread can be 40 - 60 wt.  So back to our subject....  This is why you might see instructions for a "scant quarter inch."  Your PPQI  just might not be a quarter inch after all.

One final test comes by pressing the seam open and measuring the results.  Have you successfully reduced the stitched fabrics by one half inch?  For example, two squares measuring 2 inches should measure 3 and 1/2 inches after sewing.  No more, no less.

Now that we have the technical details of the quarter inch resolved, we are ready to move on to the next quilting fundamental - pressing seams.

Stay tuned!

What is your favorite method to achieve your PPQI?  I hope you'll share.